Panorama Quickie, Heading North with Big R

I haven't posted in a while because I have been sick, which is a bit of a bummer but it has allowed me time to catch up with family and distract myself with doggie good times. Tomorrow morning I will crawl out of the sick bed and see if Ryan Hokanson (Big R) and I can't go bag ourselves a few nice ski and/or ice lines up north around Chickaloon and Black Rapids. I will update with pics when I get back to Fairbanks next week.

Right: One of the ice pitches.

A couple weeks ago, I had the chance to go run up a fun, easy ice route on Panorama Peak off the Parks Highway in tropically warm conditions.  This was on the way back to Fairbanks after picking up the newest addition to the family, 101 pound black lab Jenny (aka Thumper). She made some whimpering sounds as I left the vehicle and made sure to  Here are a couple pics from that. The climb was a nice basic gully with 4 or 5 short pitches of grade 2+ ice, not the most exciting but the setting was really nice and it felt good to get the lungs pumping in the midst of the 7 hour drive. I was able to traverse right and descend an upper fork of this couloir so that I only had to downclimb one of these steps on the way back to the truck.

The Burden of Proof: Documentation of Climbing Ventures

Throughout climbing's history, there have been great ascents, and there have been hoaxes. This post by Martin Gutmann (a climber I do not know) sheds some light on possible standards of documentation for climbers pursuing bold climbs around the world. Per his viewpoint, it seems that if one expects to climb in the limelight, that one bears the burden of proof for documentation of climbing ventures. Interesting, and timely, in light of the current discussion, a la stalker, that has most recently spilled onto Alpinist.com. 

BD Spinner Leashes Usage Info

For all those folks out there who use tether systems for their leashless tools, here is the official word from Black Diamond about the strength and potential for injury when using leashes such as the Spinner or the Grivel Double Spring. I really like the illustration so I am pasting it in here for everyone's information and as sort of a quickie safety briefing so you don't end up looking like that guy at the bottom!

An Unfeasibility Study: Method and Madness in Alpine Style Climbing

Thursday, February 11th at 6pm I will be  providing the entertainment for the first day of the Beaver Sports Birthday Bash with a themed slideshow titled: An Unfeasibility Study: Method and Madness in Alpine Style Climbing. 

“Hope for the best, expect the worst, some drink champagne, some die of thirst…” or so go the lyrics from Mel Brooks’ film The Twelve Chairs (1970). A similar maxim might be applied in the situation of the alpinist, perhaps something along the lines of “Plan for the best, Expect the Worst.” While careful planning may go into the choice of objective and chosen strategy, alpine first-ascent routes have a way of crushing well-laid plans. 


The featured presentation will explore hubris and commitment through coverage of such age-old questions as: “what happens when your food is gone?” “does ‘run-out’ mean that you’ve run out of something, and should you go to the neighbor's to get some more?” and “is it awkward to be tied to another man for several days?” Join me as we explore these and other delicate questions in an interactive community presentation designed to spark your sense of humor and desire to get out on your own adventures. 

Vince Anderson's 'Lego' Ouray Comp Route Video

Vince Anderson was charged with putting together the comp route for this year's Ouray Ice Festival competition and made this 'video' of a fictional conversation between himself and the competition judge where they try to decide what the route should be like, and how they want it to affect the well-being of the competitors. I wouldn't usually share a link like this except that it is hilarious and the bad graphics and sound quality add to the humor. Warning: You will only find this funny if you are a climber AND don't mind a couple of curse words. Follow this link to the video.

Farewell, Tia!

My faithful adventure companion of over 13 years, 15+ year old Tia died this week. She died beautifully, and peacefully in my arms, amidst the flux of everyday life. She had quite the journey, from instigating unsatisfied young sub-alpha to aged queen alpha of the neighborhood. The above photo was taken on a family float on the Chena River with my wife Wendy and stepdaughter Allie, and Tia's newest companion, the young Sterling. Tia had just found a beaver skull that she carried in her mouth. It was probably her proudest moment of last summer. Goodbye, Tia! Thanks for comforting me and walking with me for all these years...

Hatchery Wall Mini-Topo

Here are a few photos and topos from the week plus down at the cabin. Enjoy!

Above: Current condition of King's Beard (WI5+).

Above: Topo of Orion area. Photo: Peter Illig

Above: Topo of Altruist's Way area.

Above: Topo of Stray Comet. Tippy Topout needs someone to send it clean on lead, we ran out of time to develop the crag. One can clip the bolt with a double shoulder length runner and still head into the trad (standard) finish. Another interesting variation would be the traditional start which climbs in from the left on a crack (directly above the belayer bolt) at about M7, with reasonable gear.

Shocker: Alpinist Seen Bolting at Kenai Peninsula Crag

Recently, on the Kenai Peninsula, a triumphant  homunculus with a sport-climbing physique was seen wielding a drill upon the twitching carcass of one unkempt Alaskan alpinist, having crawled from within the belly of said beast. Gore aside, the end results were not entirely unpleasant.

I have never sought out reasons for the placement of bolts. But, this December I was down on the peninsula looking at one of my oft peered-at crags and noticed that the dribbles that sometimes form had turned into full fledged mixed and ice climbs.

Over the course of ten days, I cycled through four climbing partners to clean and establish several new mixed lines at the Hatchery Wall near Trail Lake, Kenai Peninsula, Alaska and climb some local ice. None of these lines are  very difficult, but they are a lot of fun and the current condition of the crag presents several new options for the excited winter climber burnt out on the meager options offered in this warm yet relatively dry winter season. In addition to cleaning, bolting, and redpointing a couple of steeper mixed gear lines, we also developed a couple easier traditional lines and installed anchors in several places so that the crag should be relatively user friendly for those interested in seeing what it has to offer.

Above right: On the first ascent of Orion (M6+ish WI4). Photo: Sam Herreid.

Many thanks to Todd Helgeson and Ryan Hokanson for the use of their drills. And, many thanks to Peter Illig, Ryan Hokanson, Sam Herreid, and Jon Cobb for their belays, feedback, and help in the development of the crag. Thanks to Clint Helander for offering up his bolts to be placed at the crag! It was a pleasure climbing at the Hatchery Wall, and visiting Victor Creek with Sam Herreid for an ascent of the classic King's Beard, which we found in excellent condition. At some point in the next several days, I will develop a photo topo with basic information about the crag for those interested in heading out to repeat some of the more often formed pure ice lines or the new mixed rigs. For now, enjoy these photos of a couple of climbs that we did while hanging out at my cabin.

The new lines need repeats to determine  consensus grades, so please go repeat them and let me know what you think at alpineessence at gmail.com .

Above left: During an ascent of the classic King's Beard in Victor Creek (WI5+). Photo: Sam Herreid.

Waking Up the Body

The head has been very awake this last 4 months. The body, not so much. I have been in a state of hyperarousal, always one more thing to do for grad school or some activity of daily life like the groceries, the dogs, dishes, cleaning up dustbunnies in our little cabin. Whatever. Having the powerlifting set-up and hangboard has helped, but it is a far cry from daily cardio and climbing such as was my life for about 5 years. Another thing I notice is that exposure seems slightly novel again, which is a welcome perception but can cause one to secondguess solid ice placements.

Usually the way I start out my ice and mixed season is I go around soloing everything I can get my picks into that is easier than WI4+, saving the steeper ice and mixed climbing for later, and generally starting with the easiest climbs and working my way into steeper terrain. I am going about things the same way this year, but the ice around Anchorage, Portage, and Eklutna is pretty anemic, so less options. I went soloing out on the arm (hardly ANY ice) and in Eklutna the last couple days. What I am noticing, this year, is this odd feeling that I will likely be more comfortable on mixed terrain than steep ice. Generally, this has always been the opposite for me. In the past, on trips to the Canadian Rockies or trips to Italy/France, I would spend day after day climbing demanding pure ice testpieces with extremely poor protection...and that was my 'fun.'

For some reason, this year, I feel more motivated to explore some of the mixed climbs that I have been passing off as 'not in' enough, or dismissing due to the fact that they might need bolts. I am hoping that my arms will be up to the task, as these climbs might prove to be demanding in a different way that pure ice. I guess we'll just have to see how it goes! The brain training of grad school may help...or hinder. I have avoided placing bolts for 13 years...perhaps December or January will see the first ones. Todd Helgeson has generously offered up his drill for the cause of establishing new mixed routes. I hope we get the weather and ice conditions to make it happen.

Southcentral Sunset

I was back in Anchorage last week for the Alaska Public Health Association (ALPHA) yearly summit. One day while there I went out mixed bouldering with Ryan Hokanson. He and some other folks have been running training circuits out on the arm. We got thoroughly pumped and had a great time. I put a crampon through my calf which made for a bloody afternoon...but it is all healed up and ready to go. On our way down to the car, we were treated to this spectacular sunset...it is nice to be near the sea again.

We are headed back down from Fairbanks today to get Wendy to her Costa Rica vacation and me to a couple weeks of climbing/guiding and such. I will be working with Ascending Path to guide a few days and hope to get a peek at my mixed projects to see if they are icing up to possibly return in January.

December Hiatus and Winter Training

Last year at this time, I wrote something about how much reading and writing I had left to do before yet another semester of grad school is under my belt. This year is much the same, but somehow I am managing to remain more focused and balanced despite the increased workload, though there have been some notable exceptions. As a person driven by poignancy, it can be at times difficult to maintain balance. Last year school wrecked my body through too many hours sitting hunched over my computer doing work. This year it has been easier to maintain my core fitness, because I can get serious workouts in at home in a decreased amount of time; I got a bunch of weights this summer so that I could powerlift in the backyard. When it hit zero for the first time this year the weights came inside. An old yoga mat protects the floor, and the dogs look on from their beds wondering what all the grunting is about! I also got a v10 hangboard from Nicros so that I can do more climbing specific training and core. The bigger challenge is finding time for cardio since my lungs are sensitive to the cold. Soon, I hope to have a respirator so that it is more feasible for me to get out running and skiing when it is colder than -10 F as I did last year.

A goal for my winter training is to come out of the gate in the springtime more prepared to free climb (mixed as well as rock) well on the alpine routes that I am planning to attempt in various locales around Alaska. Winter break is coming up again, and I am also hoping to get out skiing and climbing (the prime activity depending on the temperatures, snow, and ice conditions). It should be a good time, and I will update with any extra cool adventures that occur.

Controversial Figure in Alpinism Dies in Nepal

One of the most controversial figures in modern alpinism, Tomaz Humar, passed away recently on the South face of Langtang Lirung (7227m), Langtang Himal, Nepal. Known for his courageous solos and dramatic rescues, his tactics called into question the very definition of modern alpinism. He was a commercial alpinist, an iconoclast within the small world of individuals pursuing hard alpine climbs worldwide. He controverted the long held maxims of self-sufficiency and judicious decision making, two of the central tenets of alpinism held by climbers who wish to push their limits in alpine for a lifetime. Here is Climbing Magazine's account of Humar's climbing life with all excitement included, by Dougald MacDonald. For yet more historical context, please see this National Geographic link: "Tomaz Humar: Incredible Rescue, Angry Backlash on Pakistan's Nanga Parbat" written in the wake of Mr. Humar's 2005 rescue from the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat. This article contains thoughtful comments on the importance of self-sufficiency and factors in the decision-making process in alpine endeavors from alpine luminaries such as Kelly Cordes, Michael Kennedy, Marko Prezelj, and Mark Twight. 

November 17th- Alaska Alpine Club Slideshow

Event poster from Peter Illig, Alaska Alpine Club. This photo is the 4th pitch of the Pillar Arete on Caliban in the Arrigetch. Photo: Ryan Hokanson

November 17th at 7:00 PM at the University of Alaska Fairbanks' Schaible Auditorium in the Bunnell Building, I will be giving a slideshow for the Alaska Alpine Club's November meeting covering climbs I have completed during the last year. I will present on climbs in the Arrigetch, the Hayes Range, and the Chugach. The show, titled "Test Tasting an Alpine Medley" will include first ascents, repeats and a solo ascent to whet the appetite for the upcoming alpine season. The primary theme will be encouraging other alaskan climbers to get out there and fire some of the routes that often get climbed by visitors.

Jed Brown's New Alpine Line- "The Great White Jade Heist"

Longtime Fairbanks climber, now Fairbanks expat Jed Brown recently posted some photos from his recent China expedition to Xuelian West peak where he and partners completed a 2650m new mixed line on the peak which they called "The Great White Jade Heist." Looks like it was a great climb, and would make any alpinist get excited about heading to China! Follow this link to view his photos from the trip or visit the American Alpine Club's Inclined Blog Entry by Dougald MacDonald for details on their trip.

October 12th- AMH Season Opener Slide Show Alchemy Ridge, The Arrigetch, and Mount Yukla

Melting some water in high winds below the crux of Alchemy Ridge, Mount Balchen, Hayes Range. Photo: Matt Klick

On October 12th, 7:30 pm, at Grant Hall Theatre on the Alaska Pacific University Campus, I will be giving a slideshow for Alaska Mountaineering and Hiking's winter season opening event titled "Test Tasting an Alpine Medley." All attendees will receive a 20% discount on Black Diamond Ice Climbing Equipment on October 13th and 14th. The show will include the first ascent of Alchemy Ridge on Mount Balchen, Arrigetch climbs such as the Pillar Arete on Caliban and a repeat of the North Buttress of West Maiden in the Arrigetch, and a solo ascent Mount Yukla's 6700 foot Complete West Ridge. Black Diamond Equipment was the catalyst for this event, and have graciously assisted me, over the last year and half, to get out into the mountains during the windows I have available during hiatuses from the UAF-UAA Psychology Ph.D program. Seth Holden will also be presenting about he and Clint Helander's first ascent of the Southwest Ridge of the Ice Pyramid in the Revelation Mountains.

I plan to focus on climbs that I have not yet presented upon in the Anchorage area to include climbs in the Arrigetch, the Hayes Range, and the Chugach. These are all climbs I have completed since Black Diamond Equipment has been assisting me through their Grassroots Team. I also intend to share about the pursuit of alpine climbing and the utility and pleasure of using an alpine approach in the mountains, vision and execution, and the two-edged sword of the single push. Tag-teamed with Seth's presentation of he and Clint's climb in the Revelations, it should be a unique show, so come on out!

Anchorage Drum and Healing Circle

This past summer the Anchorage homeless community lost 12 people, huge among such a tight knit group. As a result, the Alaska Mental Health Trust Authority decided to fund a special healing event organized by the Alaska Mental Health Consumer Web in the community of Fairview in central Anchorage. I was one of the people (a lucky newbie) who assisted in the facilitation, led by Bob Parr and Larry Roberts (Alaska Rural Behavioral Health Training Academy) of Fairbanks and native elders Liz Sunnyboy and Frank Haldane. Bob and Larry brought somewhere around 40 drums (and a variety of other percussion instruments for use in the circle) down from Fairbanks the night before. The next two days were a really cool process of community strengthening, all out drumming fun, and healing. KTUU Channel 2 Anchorage did a feature of the event on the evening news. It can be viewed by following this link: http://www.ktuu.com/global/story.asp?s=11118134

Anchorage Cultural Event, Nome Institute and Visit

I was in Nome recently for work with my assistantship this year (ARBHTA) at a clinical supervision institute, following a UAF-UAA Psychology Ph.D Program cultural event in Anchorage. Visiting Nome was an awesome experience. It seemingly offers a variety of outdoor activities. I visited with Ian McRae while there, who shared about what climbing dreams look like when one is already removed from the conventions of climbing society's norms and like minded individuals: Not surprisingly, it can be hard to find climbing partners when the weather is often bad and you live near the point of Alaska's Seward Peninsula at the junction of the Bering and Chukchi seas, far away from almost all other climbers. Ian had some inspirations about living in Nome, and some good stories about exploratory climbing adventures throughout Alaska, a few of which have made it to his brand new blog, Kigluaik Tales.

Here is a video of surf crashing into the seawall that defines the edge of town there.

Mount Healy Challenge

Wendy and I decided to take a drive and enter the Mount Healy race near the entrance to Denali National Park this past Sunday. We had a good time despite heavy rain and fog. The lack of visibility caused the race organizer (Matias Saari) to shorten the course. It was a fun course, and everyone was very supportive. Amazingly, the turnout was much larger than the previous running of this race despite the rain. Results can be found here on the Running Club North website.

Trip Report: Yukla West Ridge Solo

Above: Visible as the skyline, the complete West Ridge of Mount Yukla starts further down than is visible in this photo. The ridge gains 6735 vertical feet (2050 meters) from its beginning near the beautiful Eagle River to Mount Yukla's 7535 foot summit. Photo retrieved from rockclimbing.com. Please view the source for more information.

Trip Report

Rain, rain, rain! That was all the forecast offered as I considered heading south to Anchorage for 10 days to try and climb and pick up some work. Speaking with climbing buddies, it also seemed that no one had the time to be able to go climbing. Then a glimmer appeared as the forecast showed a three day hole of sunshine in the middle of a month of rain. I packed up and headed down to Anchorage. After reconnecting with family and arranging work plans, I threw my pack together and headed out to Eagle River drainage, eager to make a solo attempt on Yukla's Complete West Ridge (IV 5.7), first climbed in 2004 by Rod Hancock and Stuart Parks. As far as I know, they made the first and only ascent of the ridge prior to my climb. While the ridge had been attempted by several local parties prior to their successful ascent, it is by no means a 'difficult' climb. It is, however, a very long and committing route, gaining 6735 vertical feet (2050 meters) from base to summit. The ridge also has extensive horizontal sections and, indeed, several significant areas where one loses elevation. So, it makes for a long day on route. I climbed the ridge in 11 hours, self-belaying one pitch, climbing carefully and slowly the rest of the time. I was pleasantly surprised both at the commitment factor on route, and the presence of a lot of fun mid 5th class to 5.7 climbing interspersed with scrambling and walking. The exposure on route was the most defining factor, as one is traversing along 5000 feet above the Icicle Creek drainage. One would not want to have to descend that way in an emergency.


Right: A exposed, clean traverse along the crack in the center of the photo.



















Left: A fine section of au cheval (straddle) ridge.




Below Right: Some big exposure on clean rock.






Below Left: Getting ready to haul up the pack on a steeper section that I self-belayed.


























Right: Self-portrait high on route.






















Below: The view from the tippy top.


The descent down to Twin Falls was kind of a pain in the ass. Since I hadn't ascended that way before, I missed the small trail that apparently wends down through the brush to the Crow Pass trail. So, I did a lot of bushwhacking instead, making for a fitting southcentral Alaska finish.

Update: Yukla West Ridge Solo

Yesterday I returned from a great solo trip to make the second (?) ascent of Mount Yukla's 'Complete West Ridge.' It is a really fun, LONG 5.7 ridge first climbed by Rod Hancock and Stuart Parks in 2004 after several attempts by locals over the years, including Charlie Sassara in the 1980s. All partners I spoke with told me that they couldn't go at that time, but I wasn't going to miss out on the only weather window in the last month, so I geared up to go alone. It turned out well, and the weather crapped out the day after I returned. Stay tuned for a few photos and a trip report.