Waking Up the Body

The head has been very awake this last 4 months. The body, not so much. I have been in a state of hyperarousal, always one more thing to do for grad school or some activity of daily life like the groceries, the dogs, dishes, cleaning up dustbunnies in our little cabin. Whatever. Having the powerlifting set-up and hangboard has helped, but it is a far cry from daily cardio and climbing such as was my life for about 5 years. Another thing I notice is that exposure seems slightly novel again, which is a welcome perception but can cause one to secondguess solid ice placements.

Usually the way I start out my ice and mixed season is I go around soloing everything I can get my picks into that is easier than WI4+, saving the steeper ice and mixed climbing for later, and generally starting with the easiest climbs and working my way into steeper terrain. I am going about things the same way this year, but the ice around Anchorage, Portage, and Eklutna is pretty anemic, so less options. I went soloing out on the arm (hardly ANY ice) and in Eklutna the last couple days. What I am noticing, this year, is this odd feeling that I will likely be more comfortable on mixed terrain than steep ice. Generally, this has always been the opposite for me. In the past, on trips to the Canadian Rockies or trips to Italy/France, I would spend day after day climbing demanding pure ice testpieces with extremely poor protection...and that was my 'fun.'

For some reason, this year, I feel more motivated to explore some of the mixed climbs that I have been passing off as 'not in' enough, or dismissing due to the fact that they might need bolts. I am hoping that my arms will be up to the task, as these climbs might prove to be demanding in a different way that pure ice. I guess we'll just have to see how it goes! The brain training of grad school may help...or hinder. I have avoided placing bolts for 13 years...perhaps December or January will see the first ones. Todd Helgeson has generously offered up his drill for the cause of establishing new mixed routes. I hope we get the weather and ice conditions to make it happen.

Southcentral Sunset

I was back in Anchorage last week for the Alaska Public Health Association (ALPHA) yearly summit. One day while there I went out mixed bouldering with Ryan Hokanson. He and some other folks have been running training circuits out on the arm. We got thoroughly pumped and had a great time. I put a crampon through my calf which made for a bloody afternoon...but it is all healed up and ready to go. On our way down to the car, we were treated to this spectacular sunset...it is nice to be near the sea again.

We are headed back down from Fairbanks today to get Wendy to her Costa Rica vacation and me to a couple weeks of climbing/guiding and such. I will be working with Ascending Path to guide a few days and hope to get a peek at my mixed projects to see if they are icing up to possibly return in January.

December Hiatus and Winter Training

Last year at this time, I wrote something about how much reading and writing I had left to do before yet another semester of grad school is under my belt. This year is much the same, but somehow I am managing to remain more focused and balanced despite the increased workload, though there have been some notable exceptions. As a person driven by poignancy, it can be at times difficult to maintain balance. Last year school wrecked my body through too many hours sitting hunched over my computer doing work. This year it has been easier to maintain my core fitness, because I can get serious workouts in at home in a decreased amount of time; I got a bunch of weights this summer so that I could powerlift in the backyard. When it hit zero for the first time this year the weights came inside. An old yoga mat protects the floor, and the dogs look on from their beds wondering what all the grunting is about! I also got a v10 hangboard from Nicros so that I can do more climbing specific training and core. The bigger challenge is finding time for cardio since my lungs are sensitive to the cold. Soon, I hope to have a respirator so that it is more feasible for me to get out running and skiing when it is colder than -10 F as I did last year.

A goal for my winter training is to come out of the gate in the springtime more prepared to free climb (mixed as well as rock) well on the alpine routes that I am planning to attempt in various locales around Alaska. Winter break is coming up again, and I am also hoping to get out skiing and climbing (the prime activity depending on the temperatures, snow, and ice conditions). It should be a good time, and I will update with any extra cool adventures that occur.

Controversial Figure in Alpinism Dies in Nepal

One of the most controversial figures in modern alpinism, Tomaz Humar, passed away recently on the South face of Langtang Lirung (7227m), Langtang Himal, Nepal. Known for his courageous solos and dramatic rescues, his tactics called into question the very definition of modern alpinism. He was a commercial alpinist, an iconoclast within the small world of individuals pursuing hard alpine climbs worldwide. He controverted the long held maxims of self-sufficiency and judicious decision making, two of the central tenets of alpinism held by climbers who wish to push their limits in alpine for a lifetime. Here is Climbing Magazine's account of Humar's climbing life with all excitement included, by Dougald MacDonald. For yet more historical context, please see this National Geographic link: "Tomaz Humar: Incredible Rescue, Angry Backlash on Pakistan's Nanga Parbat" written in the wake of Mr. Humar's 2005 rescue from the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat. This article contains thoughtful comments on the importance of self-sufficiency and factors in the decision-making process in alpine endeavors from alpine luminaries such as Kelly Cordes, Michael Kennedy, Marko Prezelj, and Mark Twight. 

November 17th- Alaska Alpine Club Slideshow

Event poster from Peter Illig, Alaska Alpine Club. This photo is the 4th pitch of the Pillar Arete on Caliban in the Arrigetch. Photo: Ryan Hokanson

November 17th at 7:00 PM at the University of Alaska Fairbanks' Schaible Auditorium in the Bunnell Building, I will be giving a slideshow for the Alaska Alpine Club's November meeting covering climbs I have completed during the last year. I will present on climbs in the Arrigetch, the Hayes Range, and the Chugach. The show, titled "Test Tasting an Alpine Medley" will include first ascents, repeats and a solo ascent to whet the appetite for the upcoming alpine season. The primary theme will be encouraging other alaskan climbers to get out there and fire some of the routes that often get climbed by visitors.

Jed Brown's New Alpine Line- "The Great White Jade Heist"

Longtime Fairbanks climber, now Fairbanks expat Jed Brown recently posted some photos from his recent China expedition to Xuelian West peak where he and partners completed a 2650m new mixed line on the peak which they called "The Great White Jade Heist." Looks like it was a great climb, and would make any alpinist get excited about heading to China! Follow this link to view his photos from the trip or visit the American Alpine Club's Inclined Blog Entry by Dougald MacDonald for details on their trip.

October 12th- AMH Season Opener Slide Show Alchemy Ridge, The Arrigetch, and Mount Yukla

Melting some water in high winds below the crux of Alchemy Ridge, Mount Balchen, Hayes Range. Photo: Matt Klick

On October 12th, 7:30 pm, at Grant Hall Theatre on the Alaska Pacific University Campus, I will be giving a slideshow for Alaska Mountaineering and Hiking's winter season opening event titled "Test Tasting an Alpine Medley." All attendees will receive a 20% discount on Black Diamond Ice Climbing Equipment on October 13th and 14th. The show will include the first ascent of Alchemy Ridge on Mount Balchen, Arrigetch climbs such as the Pillar Arete on Caliban and a repeat of the North Buttress of West Maiden in the Arrigetch, and a solo ascent Mount Yukla's 6700 foot Complete West Ridge. Black Diamond Equipment was the catalyst for this event, and have graciously assisted me, over the last year and half, to get out into the mountains during the windows I have available during hiatuses from the UAF-UAA Psychology Ph.D program. Seth Holden will also be presenting about he and Clint Helander's first ascent of the Southwest Ridge of the Ice Pyramid in the Revelation Mountains.

I plan to focus on climbs that I have not yet presented upon in the Anchorage area to include climbs in the Arrigetch, the Hayes Range, and the Chugach. These are all climbs I have completed since Black Diamond Equipment has been assisting me through their Grassroots Team. I also intend to share about the pursuit of alpine climbing and the utility and pleasure of using an alpine approach in the mountains, vision and execution, and the two-edged sword of the single push. Tag-teamed with Seth's presentation of he and Clint's climb in the Revelations, it should be a unique show, so come on out!

Anchorage Drum and Healing Circle

This past summer the Anchorage homeless community lost 12 people, huge among such a tight knit group. As a result, the Alaska Mental Health Trust Authority decided to fund a special healing event organized by the Alaska Mental Health Consumer Web in the community of Fairview in central Anchorage. I was one of the people (a lucky newbie) who assisted in the facilitation, led by Bob Parr and Larry Roberts (Alaska Rural Behavioral Health Training Academy) of Fairbanks and native elders Liz Sunnyboy and Frank Haldane. Bob and Larry brought somewhere around 40 drums (and a variety of other percussion instruments for use in the circle) down from Fairbanks the night before. The next two days were a really cool process of community strengthening, all out drumming fun, and healing. KTUU Channel 2 Anchorage did a feature of the event on the evening news. It can be viewed by following this link: http://www.ktuu.com/global/story.asp?s=11118134

Anchorage Cultural Event, Nome Institute and Visit

I was in Nome recently for work with my assistantship this year (ARBHTA) at a clinical supervision institute, following a UAF-UAA Psychology Ph.D Program cultural event in Anchorage. Visiting Nome was an awesome experience. It seemingly offers a variety of outdoor activities. I visited with Ian McRae while there, who shared about what climbing dreams look like when one is already removed from the conventions of climbing society's norms and like minded individuals: Not surprisingly, it can be hard to find climbing partners when the weather is often bad and you live near the point of Alaska's Seward Peninsula at the junction of the Bering and Chukchi seas, far away from almost all other climbers. Ian had some inspirations about living in Nome, and some good stories about exploratory climbing adventures throughout Alaska, a few of which have made it to his brand new blog, Kigluaik Tales.

Here is a video of surf crashing into the seawall that defines the edge of town there.

Mount Healy Challenge

Wendy and I decided to take a drive and enter the Mount Healy race near the entrance to Denali National Park this past Sunday. We had a good time despite heavy rain and fog. The lack of visibility caused the race organizer (Matias Saari) to shorten the course. It was a fun course, and everyone was very supportive. Amazingly, the turnout was much larger than the previous running of this race despite the rain. Results can be found here on the Running Club North website.

Trip Report: Yukla West Ridge Solo

Above: Visible as the skyline, the complete West Ridge of Mount Yukla starts further down than is visible in this photo. The ridge gains 6735 vertical feet (2050 meters) from its beginning near the beautiful Eagle River to Mount Yukla's 7535 foot summit. Photo retrieved from rockclimbing.com. Please view the source for more information.

Trip Report

Rain, rain, rain! That was all the forecast offered as I considered heading south to Anchorage for 10 days to try and climb and pick up some work. Speaking with climbing buddies, it also seemed that no one had the time to be able to go climbing. Then a glimmer appeared as the forecast showed a three day hole of sunshine in the middle of a month of rain. I packed up and headed down to Anchorage. After reconnecting with family and arranging work plans, I threw my pack together and headed out to Eagle River drainage, eager to make a solo attempt on Yukla's Complete West Ridge (IV 5.7), first climbed in 2004 by Rod Hancock and Stuart Parks. As far as I know, they made the first and only ascent of the ridge prior to my climb. While the ridge had been attempted by several local parties prior to their successful ascent, it is by no means a 'difficult' climb. It is, however, a very long and committing route, gaining 6735 vertical feet (2050 meters) from base to summit. The ridge also has extensive horizontal sections and, indeed, several significant areas where one loses elevation. So, it makes for a long day on route. I climbed the ridge in 11 hours, self-belaying one pitch, climbing carefully and slowly the rest of the time. I was pleasantly surprised both at the commitment factor on route, and the presence of a lot of fun mid 5th class to 5.7 climbing interspersed with scrambling and walking. The exposure on route was the most defining factor, as one is traversing along 5000 feet above the Icicle Creek drainage. One would not want to have to descend that way in an emergency.


Right: A exposed, clean traverse along the crack in the center of the photo.



















Left: A fine section of au cheval (straddle) ridge.




Below Right: Some big exposure on clean rock.






Below Left: Getting ready to haul up the pack on a steeper section that I self-belayed.


























Right: Self-portrait high on route.






















Below: The view from the tippy top.


The descent down to Twin Falls was kind of a pain in the ass. Since I hadn't ascended that way before, I missed the small trail that apparently wends down through the brush to the Crow Pass trail. So, I did a lot of bushwhacking instead, making for a fitting southcentral Alaska finish.

Update: Yukla West Ridge Solo

Yesterday I returned from a great solo trip to make the second (?) ascent of Mount Yukla's 'Complete West Ridge.' It is a really fun, LONG 5.7 ridge first climbed by Rod Hancock and Stuart Parks in 2004 after several attempts by locals over the years, including Charlie Sassara in the 1980s. All partners I spoke with told me that they couldn't go at that time, but I wasn't going to miss out on the only weather window in the last month, so I geared up to go alone. It turned out well, and the weather crapped out the day after I returned. Stay tuned for a few photos and a trip report.

BD Journal Post

Black Diamond added a BD Journal post from our Hayes Range expedition to their new website. Feel free to check it out. It is pretty similar to my dedicated Alchemy Ridge blog, but is a nice introduction to the BD Journal which hosts updates from many disciplines of the sport and has additional safety features. As an aside, I am headed south to hopefully make the most of the bad weather that has been plaguing southcentral Alaska by doing some climbing.

Summer in Alaska

Events this week: Went to an awesome rainy wedding at Spencer Glacier. Our friends Britta and Ian got married there along with their brave, cold relatives from other areas of the country. Ran Lost Lake trail with my bride and oldest friend Rune. The running conditions were pretty perfect, really, for AK kids such as ourselves (50 degrees, drizzle). Wendy then headed back to Fairbanks, and Rune and I went down to Anchor Point to fish with my father. We caught a bunch of Halibut, then went home (Rune to Hope, me to my family's house in Anchorage). Then the dog and I went back to Fairbanks and ran up Mount Healy along the way. I didn't take a lot of photos that week but a few are posted below. Wendy and I also recently ran the Granite Tors trail in its entirety which made for a nice afternoon.

Right: Wendy hiking loads in to the wedding ceremony at Spencer Glacier after hopping off the train.




















Left: The old man and the sea. Funny how dad seems most at home out on the water. Kind of like me and mountains!



Below: Two porpoises that made a habit of swimming around the boat while we were fishing.

Chena Hot Springs Run n' Soak

Wendy and I, along with several friends from Anchorage went out on Saturday to do the Chena Hot Springs Run 'n Soak. This was a really fun race of 8.5 miles with the first four being uphill to a ridgetop, then running along the ridge for another four and a half miles down to Chena Hot Springs. Ridgetops are so nice to run along, this one especially because we were running through the cool rock climbing area of Angel Rocks, and could also see the Granite Tors from far off.

Tatlanika and Rock Creek Bouldering Tour

Wendy and I headed out to explore the bouldering areas of Tatlanika and Rock Creek along the Parks Highway the last couple of days. There is a lot of excellent rock in the area, far more than I imagined. Much of it is undeveloped, but Tom Ellis and others have put in a lot of work cleaning and developing many boulders. The rock is quite monolithic, with few features and often small footholds. We had a great time exploring and got on a lot of different problems. Neither of us sent anything personally difficult.

Above: Wendy trying to decide whether to commit on Welcome Home (VO) on the Welcome Boulder in the Tatlanika boulders (Parks Hwy MP 272).







Left: The nice-looking harder problem Darth Mal (V7) on an unnamed boulder at Tatlanika.




















Right: A cool dihedral project (?) on the Highballs Boulder in Tatlanika.










Left: Another cool looking project (?) on the Highballs Boulder.












Right: Topping out on a fun problem on the Welcome Boulder at Rock Creek (Parks Hwy MP 261).

Elliot Hwy MP 29.5: The Hilltop Boulders

While heading to Grapefruit this summer I kept noticing a set of nice looking boulders sitting on a small ridge shortly after one passes the Wickersham Dome trailhead and passes the mile 29 marker. No one I spoke with seemed to have any idea what kind of rock was there, and if it was good for climbing. Later on in August I found out that Ian McRae of Nome, formerly of Fairbanks, had climbed on these years earlier.

Today, I couldn't find a partner so I figured I might as well bushwhack up through the woods to check them out. I hoped that I would find more limestone but, alas, this was not the case. I parked at about mile 29.5 and walked straight up through the trees for about 25 minutes to access this group of boulders. I climbed about ten problems all in the VB to V2 range, on all of the cleaner features (i.e. no or minimal loose rock). The height of these problems range from 10 feet up to about 17 or so at the highest. There are more boulders about 1/2 hour hike from this set which I haven't examined. Many of the boulders have a lot of lichen on the top outs, and you may appreciate having a pad as a few of the landings are rocky. The rock quality is mixed, some excellent and some with loose blocks. A brush would be handy for others (lichen), as would some smaller implements to remove scary loose pieces.

Right: A nice roof with two fun easier problems climbing out.








Below: A short, high quality face (V0).






Right: The Fin boulder hosts several taller, fun problems that are generally cleaner, though they still host lichen. Rocky landings on this side.

Some Grapefruit Bouldering

I have been going out to Grapefruit Rocks to hit up the Fruit Loop bouldering circuit a bit this summer, and have enjoyed it. It seems that there is a lot more rock to clean up and climb on out there, but the Fruit Loop problems have presented a great developed option to get out and pull on some rock. There is a nice mix of developed problems from VO (many) to V6 (Harry Potter's Magic Wand) with a few projects sitting around waiting for someone to climb them.  The 'Tom Ellis Project' looks hard, with super small holds. My finger strength seems pretty abysmal at the moment, but hopefully this bouldering will tune me up. Here are a couple photos from Grapefruit.

Left: Wendy warming up on a nice crack before our bouldering session.










Right: Me on Eeyore's problem (V2)

Wendy's Mount Marathon

We all headed down to Seward to watch Wendy run her 17th Mount Marathon race. She came in 20th in a big field, and seemed pretty happy with her race. A lot of people suffered from heat stroke including two individuals who were 1st on the way down the mountain, Holly Brooks and Brent Knight. It was inspiring to see folks pushing themselves and the weather was awesome.

It was also nice to stay a few nights at my old (ca. 1905) cabin at the base of Gilpatricks Mountain, a rarity since we have lived in Fairbanks. My father also celebrated his 70th birthday.

Hayes Range 2009: Trip Report

Please see this link to my trip report for our Hayes Range trip, during which we completed the first ascent of Mount Balchen's (11,140 ft) northern ridge. We named the route Alchemy Ridge (V AI4 M7), and we climbed it in a two day round trip from base camp in terrible weather. The 'Alchemy' reflects the combination of several less than ideal elements into something that turned out to feel like a golden opportunity, as well as reflecting Matt's departure from the Golden Heart city of Fairbanks for Colorado to pursue a PhD in International Relations. Jeff Benowitz feels that the correct grade for alpine routes is usually 5.4c, but Matt and I felt that the crux pitches were solid at the grade and we have chosen to keep the grades as such. Enjoy!

For Climbing's Hot Flashes report of our climb, follow this link.

For Rock and Ice's News report, follow this link.

Thanks so much to Roger Strong and Black Diamond for supporting me in climbing during the last year through the Grassroots Team.