mother would probably say that going on a blind date to a foreign country like
Kyrgyzstan is a bad idea. But, the signs all pointed toward the potential for a
productive partnership with a shared desire for adventure and transformational
experiences. Benjamin Erdmann and I corresponded for months prior to
the expedition – We finally met in person on the plane from Seattle to Dubai,
trading backslapping hugs to the surprise of our fellow passengers.
When we got to Bishkek we set to work buying
staples such as rice and beans, noodles, sausage, cheese, nuts, and dried fruit
for our planned 6 weeks in the mountains while we waited for three bags of
missing equipment. Coordinating with ITMC and a local man we knew only by the
name Adilet, we navigated confusion of Bishkek to obtain all necessary supplies
via the bazaars and local supermarkets. On the morning of August 7th we
thankfully received our missing bags and loaded everything in an enormous,
horrifically loud orange and green ancient ex-military tank of a truck and
began the 500km on and off road drive to the toe of the Komorova glacier to
establish basecamp at 3800m.
The mightly GAZ 66 with local yurt. Photo Benjamin Erdmann
Plush meadows at the base of the Komorova Glacier. Photo: Benjamin Erdmann
During my 2012 trip to this area with Ryan Johnson, we attempted one of Kizil Asker's massive couloir lines. I still experience panic when I recall waking up asphyxiating under
spindrifting concrete snow repeatedly while at our tiny ledge bivy next to
Ryan. Rappelling through the night. Huddled as close as possible to the
surface of the ice as avalanche after avalanche threatened to rip us from the face of the mountain. Ryan threw himself on top of me at a belay to
shield me from large hunks of falling ice while we rappelled through the night. We felt lucky to escape with our lives.
Upper South Face, Kizil Asker in 2012.
From BC at Komorova, 9 days of load hauling established us at our advanced basecamp
at 4400m below the cathedral like South face of Kizil
This pass into China is the way to the South Face of Kizil Asker. Center to right photo ridge is the famous 'Ochre Walls.'
Being able to see our objective renewed our enthusiasm for the line we went to the other side of the world for. Our line is prone to deposition and shedding in the form of avalanches both small and large during storms. So, Ben and I tempered our enthusiasm by reading increasingly shitty weather forecasts and talking about our intent to make it home alive. Listening to massive avalanches pour off Kizil and surrounding peaks during storms gave us a lot of motivation to try to find decent window in which to attempt our climb.
this in mind, we constantly monitored the weather reports we received from
friends back home. A couple positive reports came through but every time we packed our bags and started skiing toward the base the weather
window slammed shut and we were enveloped in proper storms. We got really good at packing and unpacking.
On one of these snowy occasions, minds going stir crazy, we
decided to attempt another line we
had seen from a distance on Panfilovski Division’s East peak (ca 5300m). This stunning 2000 foot golden granite spire seemed to have been overlooked in favor of other nearby objectives.
Our line on Panfilovski East. Photo: Benjamin Erdmann
Navigating tentatively through the snowstorm toward the base at
4:30 in the morning, we laughed at ourselves for having the hubris to even
leave the tent. Booting
up the cone, things began to clear up and we finally allowed ourselves to get
excited about the climbing. Ben found an anchor above the bergschrund and racked
up for the first pitch of mixed climbing ice plastered rock with
decent protection. The next few
pitches of moderate styrofoam ice went by quickly as we raced warming
temperatures and falling ice low on the route, establishing ourselves at the
base of the thin mixed system defining its upper half.
Ice runnel leading into upper headwall. Photo: Benjamin Erdmann
Cloud cover returned as
the upper half of the route revealed pitch after pitch of really fun mixed climbing. An insecure and
awkward moderate section led to a thinly plastered corner. Ben
led solidly up this, crampons stemming on small rock features with his
picks in eggshell ice overlying subtle rock features. Swinging into an ice choked offwidth, I moved from chicken wings into awkward palming and decent tool placements and finally a full layback.
One of the upper headwall crux pitches. Photo: Benjamin Erdmann
mind in tune, we pulled on to the top of Panfilovski Division East. We surveyed
Kizil’s titanic steepness, commenting on the mercurial and violent
nature of the weather in the Western Kokshaal Too. Our line on Panfilovski East was 2000 feet long,
climbed in 12 pitches, AI4R M7 without the use of bolts. We named it
Flight of the Zephyr in honor of our Tasmanian friend Kim Zephyr Ladiges, who
was unable to come with us on the expedition. From the top of Panfilovski East we began our rappels through
mixed weather with Ben ensuring placing
bomber anchors the entire way down. We arrived back in basecamp at 6:30 pm, 14
hours after walking out in the morning.
Atmospheric conditions on the top of Panfilovski East, Ben rigging our first rappel.
Though we had made a mutual pledge not to
attempt Kizil until we had a precipitation free weather forecast of at least 3
days in duration, we noticed that we were both losing weight in light of the
cold, continued storms, and lower than desired calorie counts resulting from
self imposed rationing in this remote place. We began to feel pressure from one another and from our
shrinking bodies to make an attempt before we lacked the mass to stay
warm. Our plan was to try to work with diurnal weather cycles; climb whenever we were presented with a clear spell, hide
out whenever we got precipitation. Unfortunately,
there is nowhere to hide. This type of route is there for a reason.
Massive amounts of precipitation funnel through to create the same pitches we
wished to climb. Such is the nature of the world-class
Getting in to the steeps in warming conditions on day 1 during our 7 hour blitz to my 2012 high point on Kizil Asker.
Benjamin Erdmann getting ready to fight for his life on a 'good morning' WI4X pitch.
Encountering beautiful pitches through both dangerous precipitation and delamination, we gave the line our best shot in light of the
horrible conditions we encountered. We made it to my 2012 highpoint in 7 hours. Fighting for
our lives 250m above our 2012 highpoint was an
experience of awakening.
Sometimes all you can do is hide out. Ben at a mid day storm bivi.
After attempting other tricky pitches in miniscule clear patches and getting punished by spindrift, we returned to our respective hideouts. After spending around 50 hours on the face with the latter 36 mostly pinned down by frightening conditions, we decided to bail. Unlike 2012 we didn't get crushed by horrific avalanches on the way down!
A nice morning at the asphyxiation bivi at 5300m on Kizil Asker, 2012. Photo: Ryan Johnson
After tossing extras and arranging transport, we slogged back over to basecamp on the Kyrgyz side of the border. Then we proceeded to get very hungry when a driver became sick and two vehicles broke down delaying our pickup.
Finally, our transport arrived with
four UK climbers inside. It turned out that they had heard about our plight and
brought us an enormous cake in addition to a bag of food provided by ITMC. We orgasmically
jammed our faces with junk food and laughed as the UK climbers played us songs
on their ukulele and regaled us with their excitement at being dropped off to
try and climb a major objective off the Kotur glacier. Soon enough we had
dropped them off and begun our journey back to civilization, were we ate an
honest excess of calories for several days before beginning our respective journeys
Ben and I would like to thank a variety of people and entities for supporting our trip.
Friends and Family - Thanks so much for supporting our crazy endeavors over and over again! And thanks for the weather reports, we would have been lost without them.
Adidas - Thanks so much for chipping in to make our trip more affordable and supporting Ben in his ongoing endeavors!
Bill Belcourt and Black Diamond - Thanks for the replacement hardware, gloves, helmet, harness, and more.
Heather's Choice - Thanks for a variety pack of dehydrated meals!
Ben - Adidas, Cassin & C.A.M.P., Sterling Ropes.
Blue Water Ropes chipped in a couple ropes which helped out greatly.
Ryan Johnson thanks for the loan of the tent mate!