June 3, 2015

Life on the Rollercoaster - New Beginnings on the Peninsula and Back to Kyrgyzstan...

All last Summer I collaboratively made long awaited plans with my life partner of three and a half years to move to a more rural location in Alaska. We were torn between Seward and Chickaloon. We researched job options, considered various ideas for our potential living situation, talked about fun things that we could do in each place. Eventually, we decided on Seward for a variety of reasons including access to the ocean, tons of mountains, trails, and canyons, local ice climbing, a local hospital, and proximity to my familial cabin in Moose Pass.

My little cabin in historical Gilpatricks, Alaska near Moose Pass

But, just like a movie that has a really happy sounding opening scene, things were not to be as we dreamed. Thankfully it wasn't because someone died or there was a zombie apocalypse but you can already can guess the situation was unpleasant at least for me since I have set the story up this way.  Eventually it came to light that loneliness and depression led to betrayal and dishonesty. The joy that life brings is a result of growing through our mistakes rather than pretending they didn't happen. At the time of course, my world fell apart and I felt utterly alone in our (my) new home....torn by feelings of inexplicable guilt and loneliness.

Within a few weeks things were starting to look a little brighter. Finally things froze up which was a lifesaver because we had a horrible snow year. I began to be able to remember who I was, that I was an OK person, that I deserve love. I joined in 'silly' community activities like the volleyball league and made some new connections. I explored the canyons in all my free time and looked for ice, finding a myriad of amazing routes with new route potential in many places and a lot of cool existing lines. All in all Seward and surrounding areas have given back tenfold with new joys found around every corner as you can see below.

Ice skating to cool ice routes in the backcountry near my cabin. Photo: Rachel Taylor

Pitch one of a potential new line (?) reminiscent of the classic Hollowhead back in Hunter Creek. I n absence of information, I gave it a personal reference of Hollowheart in honor of my struggles (WI4+ 180m). Photo: Rachel Taylor 

The view of my backyard from the flats near Nash Road.

A spectacular new line I completed with Aaron Thrasher and Elliot Gaddy that we called 'Rhinestone Wizard' (WI5 350m) in reference to a cool jewel shaped rockwall nearby.

Pitch 4 of Rhinestone Wizard - Photo Elliot Gaddy/Aaron Thrasher

Aaron Thrasher soloing easy ice on a line we took to calling 'The Big Easy' (WI3 200m) - Photo Ben Chriswell

Aaron Thrasher and Ben Chriswell walking home from 'The Big Easy' which can be seen in the background.

A bunch of amazing boulders in an 'undisclosed' location near Seward.

One of another group of nice boulders in a different 'undisclosed' location near Seward.

More of the same. Overall, my approach to the many cool things I have found around here is 'show, don't tell.' So, if you want to take a look at some of the things I have been finding or doing, please hit me up and come on down to take a look. I promise you it will be worth it. 

I've also gotten really excited about exploring new frontiers on my bikes, both around Seward and my cabin in Gilpatricks. Once I get my GoPro bike situation dialed in, I will look forward to sharing some footage with you all.

The motorcycling around here isn't too shabby either.

Finally, I had a lot of reservations about heading back overseas to Kizil Asker in Kyrgyzstan due to trying to build my new life and practice here in Seward, a little PTSD from my burials on my last attempt there with my brother from another mother Ryan Johnson. Black Diamond via Bill Belcourt threw down to help make it easier to decide to go with my new partners Benjamin Erdmann and Kim Ladiges. Just committed and got my plane tickets on Monday!

The Western Kokshall Too. Looking forward to heading back for another stab at hopefully multiple lines with Ben and Kim. Here's hoping for new love and continued explorations and route development here at home in Seward and Moose Pass as well! Yet again, climbing, you have saved my life. I owe you a debt of gratitude. And thanks for giving me the confidence to chase my dreams even when I am feeling a little bit broken down by life. My friends, thanks for being patient with me, it took a while until I felt competent to even share what has happened in my life with any depth. My coworkers, thanks for your flexibility in considering how to work out on call shifts while I am overseas! Now to get in killer shape to send in Kyrg!


  1. "The joy that life brings is a result of growing through our mistakes rather than pretending they didn't happen." Well said, and well written. Support from afar from a fellow SWSer of days long passed.

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  3. Go Sammy! Wonderful, thoughtful post and great photos! We Love you!!


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