March 25, 2012

Juneau Trip

March 9th through 19th I headed down to Juneau to rendezvous with local Southeast climber Ryan Johnson to look for new ice and alpine lines. We had a great time and also got a little climbing in - the weather was pretty bad for the alpine portion of our trip with no windows longer than 8 hours so we were shut down there - however we did climb a new waterfall ice line on the so-called 'suicide wall' that we called Bathtime with ToasterHere is the link to the photo topo of the route from my previous post, and here is a link to info on Alpinist and Desnivel about the trip.


5 people's gear loaded up for the Mendenhall glacier.


The lower icefall of the Mendenhall and Mendenhall lake.


Ryan and Tim Banfield at the first belay on Bathtime with Toaster.


Ryan on the third pitch of Bathtime with Toaster.


Ryan on the 5th pitch of Bathtime with Toaster.


There are reasons why this area is called the suicide bowl. This is one of them.


Tim following vertical ice on the 5th pitch of Bathtime with Toaster. 


Rappelling Bathtime.


After we got back from the Mendenhall we threw the dice with the weather forecast and flew into the north side of the Mendenhall Towers to try a new line. 


An oblique view of the suicide wall below a large feeder/avy slope.


One of many towers and rock walls in the area.


The 3000 foot North Face of 2 of the Mendenhall Towers from our basecamp on the upper Mendenhall. Unfortunately we didn't get to climb due to bad weather. During a couple breaks in storm we did do a little ski touring though. 


1500 foot towers on the other side of basecamp.


Rhino peak from the juncture between the Mendenhall glacier and the Juneau icefield.


Commencing the ski out to Juneau in a whiteout.

March 18, 2012

Alpine and Ice Show @ The Rock Dump - Juneau


We had a great show at the Juneau gym The Rock Dump yesterday. I forgot to post the flier earlier so here it is for posterity.

March 14, 2012

New Line @ Suicide Wall


Ryan Johnson, Tim Banfield and I just climbed a new line (above) on a previously unclimbed wall in Suicide Bowl we called Bathtime with Toaster (WI5 340m). We are heading back out immediately for another objective in the Mendenhall Towers and will update with more photos from the trip when we get back.


Ryan, Jason Nelson, and Tommy Lanagan climbed the monstrous Tide Line (WI6 420m) a few days before I arrived (above), big props to them for their hard work on the send and difficult approach. Photo Jason Nelson



March 5, 2012

Kodiak





First trip to Kodiak: Gave a great climbing show for BD and Orion's

Sports, an academic presentation at the Lilly Arctic Insititute, swam in 38 degree water at Pasagshak, explored the forest and the beach at Monashka, found cool and likely unclimbed mixed lines both on the beach and in the mountains, went backcountry skiing on Pyramid, and made a few really solid new friends. I am definitely looking forward to my next trip there.





'Swimming' at Pasagshak: Air temp 10 degrees F, wind 25 mph, water temp 38 degrees F.