March 9th through 19th I headed down to Juneau to rendezvous with local Southeast climber Ryan Johnson to look for new ice and alpine lines. We had a great time and also got a little climbing in - the weather was pretty bad for the alpine portion of our trip with no windows longer than 8 hours so we were shut down there - however we did climb a new waterfall ice line on the so-called 'suicide wall' that we called Bathtime with Toaster. Here is the link to the photo topo of the route from my previous post, and here is a link to info on Alpinist and Desnivel about the trip.
5 people's gear loaded up for the Mendenhall glacier.
The lower icefall of the Mendenhall and Mendenhall lake.
Ryan and Tim Banfield at the first belay on Bathtime with Toaster.
Ryan on the third pitch of Bathtime with Toaster.
Ryan on the 5th pitch of Bathtime with Toaster.
There are reasons why this area is called the suicide bowl. This is one of them.
Tim following vertical ice on the 5th pitch of Bathtime with Toaster.
After we got back from the Mendenhall we threw the dice with the weather forecast and flew into the north side of the Mendenhall Towers to try a new line.
An oblique view of the suicide wall below a large feeder/avy slope.
One of many towers and rock walls in the area.
The 3000 foot North Face of 2 of the Mendenhall Towers from our basecamp on the upper Mendenhall. Unfortunately we didn't get to climb due to bad weather. During a couple breaks in storm we did do a little ski touring though.
1500 foot towers on the other side of basecamp.
Rhino peak from the juncture between the Mendenhall glacier and the Juneau icefield.
Commencing the ski out to Juneau in a whiteout.