August 31, 2011

Old Cabin Update: New Porch


The old (ca. 1905) cabin at Summit Lake got some love this month when my father and Clive finished the front porch project! I am excited to get back down there and work on it next summer in a big way.

Mount Temple NE Buttress

Ryan Hokanson and I had a great reunion, did a bunch of approaching, and climbed the NE Buttress of Mount Temple (V 5.8 A1) near Lake Louise. We also approached to climb the Hannibal-Lowe on the North face of Mount Geikie but were weathered out, and approached a first ascent project in Montana's Glacier National Park only to discover that it was easy and chossy. In both cases, we coped with our chagrin by hiking for long periods of time.


Mount Temple, the NE Buttress. A nice, 4000 foot line climbing up behind the skinny tree in the center. Photo scrounged from Parks Canada.


 After a nice lazy 9:30 departure from the base of the route, we started climbing and scrambling up.



Myself scrambling up a steeper section mid-route. Photo: Ryan Hokanson


Ryan clambering through a chossband on the lower buttress.


Ryan's portrait for his mom. Handsome fellow, isn't he? My sister Sally got lucky I think, here. Or, maybe he got lucky. Hmm.


Clambering into the quartzite zone to find better rock.


Belay ledge mid-route.


High quality slab climbing on the upper route.  Photo: Ryan Hokanson


Ryan and I are used to climbing things fast, and we thought we would simul this route in 6 hours. We started pretty late and ended up taking a chilly nap on a ledge above the crux pitch and finishing the next morning. Whoops! Photo: Ryan Hokanson


Ryan finishing out the last pitches in the morning.


Summit serac and snowfield.


Ryan punching it to the summit!


The boys on the summit. Then back down to Lake Louise for some R + R! After this we headed to to GNP and spent time in Missoula with Chris Gibisch, as well as Jeff Shapiro and his family.  Photo: Ryan Hokanson

August 1, 2011

Heading to the Canadian Rockies

Ryan Hokanson and I are meeting in Montana to go climbing in the Canadian Rockies for ten days. Ryan and I haven't gotten to climb together since last year, and we both have been working and schooling too much. It should be an awesome chance to climb and reconnect before my semester ramps up in preparation for my dissertation year and Ryan begins his OR rotations for the practical portion of his nurse anesthetist training around the US. Looking forward to it!