January 23, 2011

And...more drama on Cerro Torre

So, I can't guarantee that my sentiments here are shared, but - There are a few areas in the climbing world that seem like they receive more than their share of press. I have to include Yosemite (sorry, all, but I don't really want to see another picture of the changing corners pitch) and Patagonia (Is that Cerro Torre's summit mushroom again?) in that category. 

In all honesty the climbing in Patagonia has huge appeal to me due to its alpine nature and clean granite. But, at the same time, there are other spires of comparable size and beauty that remain rarely visited or even unclimbed in other areas of the world. It is to these places that my thoughts and desires extend. 

Many people in the climbing world already know about last year's David Lama and Red Bull debacle on Cerro Torre, in which case David et al reportedly placed about 60 bolts on the already overbolted and overclimbed Compressor Route. These bolts were placed in the name of filming David's attempt to free climb the well-traveled route which consists of miles of splitter cracks which take protection easily. 

Colin Haley has a great post here which outlines Mr. Lama's approach last year, and describes how his team intends to approach the climbing on Cerro Torre this year. Apparently, Mr. Lama intends to rap bolt a steep headwall on Cerro Torre, starting at the summit. Read up if you want to, leave it if you don't. It's more commentary on the controversy - but it comes from Colin's personal experience in this case and as such is illuminating in a different way. Here's the link.

I swear, I really will post climbing pics from the last couple weeks soon. My truck is broken down with my camera in it, so please wish me speedy truck recovery!

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