February 23, 2010

The Burden of Proof: Documentation of Climbing Ventures

Throughout climbing's history, there have been great ascents, and there have been hoaxes. This post by Martin Gutmann (a climber I do not know) sheds some light on possible standards of documentation for climbers pursuing bold climbs around the world. Per his viewpoint, it seems that if one expects to climb in the limelight, that one bears the burden of proof for documentation of climbing ventures. Interesting, and timely, in light of the current discussion, a la stalker, that has most recently spilled onto Alpinist.com. 

February 4, 2010

BD Spinner Leashes Usage Info


For all those folks out there who use tether systems for their leashless tools, here is the official word from Black Diamond about the strength and potential for injury when using leashes such as the Spinner or the Grivel Double Spring. I really like the illustration so I am pasting it in here for everyone's information and as sort of a quickie safety briefing so you don't end up looking like that guy at the bottom!

February 3, 2010

An Unfeasibility Study: Method and Madness in Alpine Style Climbing

Thursday, February 11th at 6pm I will be  providing the entertainment for the first day of the Beaver Sports Birthday Bash with a themed slideshow titled: An Unfeasibility Study: Method and Madness in Alpine Style Climbing. 

“Hope for the best, expect the worst, some drink champagne, some die of thirst…” or so go the lyrics from Mel Brooks’ film The Twelve Chairs (1970). A similar maxim might be applied in the situation of the alpinist, perhaps something along the lines of “Plan for the best, Expect the Worst.” While careful planning may go into the choice of objective and chosen strategy, alpine first-ascent routes have a way of crushing well-laid plans. 


The featured presentation will explore hubris and commitment through coverage of such age-old questions as: “what happens when your food is gone?” “does ‘run-out’ mean that you’ve run out of something, and should you go to the neighbor's to get some more?” and “is it awkward to be tied to another man for several days?” Join me as we explore these and other delicate questions in an interactive community presentation designed to spark your sense of humor and desire to get out on your own adventures.