May 15, 2010

Giri-Giri Crush South Face of Logan

The Japanese climbers who call themselves the Giri-Giri Boys have completed a long standing North America climbing project, the Southeast face of Mount Logan. Rising over 9,000 feet from the glacier below, this is where Ryan and I had planned to go last year before Ryan's injury. They did a nice job, spent three days on the face, and descended the East Ridge. They ended up climbing the single relatively safe line splitting the middle of the South face, the same line we had hoped to try. Scooped! Here is a link to Climbing's Hot Flashes report.

May 3, 2010

Copp-Dash Inspire Award

Jonny Copp and Micah Dash were super talented alpinists and activists who devoted a large part of their time, effort, and energy to establishing world class alpine routes in many different places as well as being advocates for important causes. Last summer, they were caught in an avalanche on their way to another big alpine project in China. It was a huge loss.

I met Micah in the Trango Towers in 2005 when he and his friends Nick Renan were going for a single push ascent (in a day) of Eternal Flame on Trango Tower and we were warming up for our ascent of Severance Ridge  on Trango II. I met Jonny in Talkeetna with his friend Kelly around the time they established Going Monk on a peak Kelly named after their lost friend, Bruce Andrews. 

Recently I was informed that Ryan and I won an inaugural Copp-Dash Inspire Award, an award dedicated to the pursuit of hard alpine first ascents and the sharing of experiences with others in the age old format of storytelling. These were two areas Jonny and Micah excelled in. It is odd to have that tangible connection to them a year later. It feels like we are bound to do our best to carry their spirit into the mountains with us and do our best to share our experiences and vision for the alpine in new ways. Click here for the 2011 application.