December 4, 2008

Trango and Latok Expedition Slideshows

December 11th at 7:00 PM, I will be giving a slideshow at UAF's Schaible Auditorium covering two separate expeditions to the Karakoram mountains of Pakistan. The slideshow on the Trango Towers expedition covers our widely publicized first ascent of Severance Ridge (VI 5.11 [5.10+ X] A2 AI3 M5) on Trango II (6327m). The slideshow on the Latok expedition documents our two attempts (climbing to AI3 M7) at the first complete ascent of the Northwest Ridge of Latok II (7200m), and touches on my friends' first ascent of The Outside Penguin (V 5.10 A1) on 'Karim Peak' (5700m). Please visit the links below for more information on these two expeditions:

Latok Group
(2007): http://www.latoks07.blogspot.com/
Trango Towers (2005): http://www.ulibiaho2005.blogspot.com/

Here are several teaser photos from these expeditions. Enjoy!



Photo: Jeremy Frimer


Above: Some really cute Balti kids in the village of Askole. We played games with these little guys, including some magic tricks that they got a kick out of, though they appeared to believe that they should be getting money and candy.



Left: Here is my buddy Jonathon Clearwater (NZ) suffering on 'The Shield' headwall of Severance Ridge at approximately 5900m elevation. This golden headwall offered splitter free climbing, tenuous clean aid, and a monster pendulum.


Photo: Jeremy Frimer










Right: Here I am at approximately 6000m, suffering from bloody fingers due to way too much coarse golden granite, en route to 2 1/2 days more climbing without much food.

Photo: Jeremy Frimer





















Below: Latok II (7200m). We attempted this peak twice, reaching approximately 5900m on two attempts starting from 4700m.







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